The New World has been successful at building their identities on producing wines from grape varieties that represent their own unique terroir. New Zealand has done this with Sauvignon Blanc, the Australians with Shiraz, and Argentina with Malbec. But what about Chile?
Chile’s biggest strength is its superb conditions for wine production. Its fourteen wine growing regions stretch 1,200 kilometres north to south, and benefit from the influence of the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Andes Mountains on the other. An extraordinary geography provides a great diversity in soil types and climates to produce different varieties. On top of this, the country is unaffected by Phylloxera, the pest that has afflicted most European vineyards, enabling vines to be planted on their original rootstock (and therefore avoid the complicated methods of grafting). Because of these factors it is not difficult to see why Chile is considered a winemaker’s paradise. And with the opportunity to produce quality wine from almost any grape variety, which, if any, should Chile chose as its statement wine?
The main contenders:
Carménère
This Bordeaux grape variety was thought to have disappeared completely, before being discovered in Chile masquerading as Merlot. Now flourishing in its adoptive home, it is seen by many as the closest thing Chile has to a single variety identity. Spicy yet velvety in texture, its easy drinking qualities are popular with drinkers. The Vui Manent Carménère from Colchagua Valley is a perfect example. Deep red in colour, it has aromas of black cherries, coffee, mocha, and leather. On the palate a mix of blueberries, dark chocolate, and toasted hazelnut flavours can be detected.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Chile has a long history with Cabernet Sauvignon. Since the first vines arrived from France in the mid-19th century it has been grown in almost every area, becoming the most widely planted grape variety in the country today. It is, however, best suited to the warmer valleys, such as Maipo and Curicó, where it can ripen fully and develop rich berry flavours. Whether blended with other varieties, as with Concha y Toro’s Don Melchor, or used simply on its own, there is no doubt that Chile excels at producing this grape.
Syrah
Syrah is a relative latecomer to Chile, only really being established in vineyards in the mid-1990s. Plantings have grown rapidly since, but it is only now that winemakers truly understand the best ways to cultivate this grape. The vines may be young, but producers such as Casa Lapostolle are already proving that it can produce excellent wines from Syrah. Their Cuvée Alexandre is intense and complex with a punch of solid black fruit, white pepper, rosemary and spice.
Pinot Noir
As with Syrah, Pinot Noir is comparatively new to Chile and winemakers are still getting to grips with how and where is best to express the grape. Once over-cropped and over-vinified, vintners are now concentrating on lower yields and quality. Producers like the Matetic Family have discovered that the cool climate sites of San Antonio, Casablanca and Colchagua are ideal for making outstanding wines. Their EQ Pinot Noir has fresh aromas marked with mature red fruit, herbs and wet earth perfume. On the palate it is spicy with floral hints, with a good structure and a balanced acidity that makes it fresh.
Sauvignon Blanc
The quality and complexity of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc has vastly improved over the past few years and it is now getting the attention that it deserves. Lesser clones have been replaced by better imports, the inferior Sauvignonesse variety is disappearing fast, and more vineyards are being planted in the cool zones of Casablanca, Leyda and San Antonio. These valleys are closer to the Pacific Ocean where the hot Chilean sun that ripens the grapes is moderated by cool coastal breezes. The resulting wines are aromatic with zesty citrus fruits, green apple (even pineapple at times), a refreshing grassy aroma, vibrant acidity and a steely mineral edge. Costero provide a delightful example with their Leyda Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is also flourishing in the cooler climate areas. The northern valleys of Casablanca and Limarí bring out an attractive minerality, combined with well-balanced acidity. Where oak is used, it is much more subtle than in the past, allowing the wines to express more of their tropical and citrus fruit flavours. This is certainly the case with the Wild Ferment Chardonnay from Errázuriz. The soft minerality and light use of oak add complexity to fresh tropical fruit, quince and honey flavours.
Final thoughts
Vast improvements in the production of Chilean wine have been made over the years, and while winemakers are still exploring new possibilities and refining existing ones, it is exciting to see so many outstanding wines being made. Chile may not have a signature grape, but it is building a reputation on producing quality wines that offer great value for money and, as consumers, we should embrace this.
Meaning ‘little fog’ – referring to the thick fog that sets in around the Piemonte hills during harvest time – the Nebbiolo grape produces wines with high tannins and acidity which can require years of ageing before being ready to drink. It is a fickle fruit , ripening late in the growing season and unable to adapt well to soils other than those found in the Langhe hills. Here, where it revels in the calcareous-marl rich soil, it is responsible for producing the wines of Barbaresco and the grandest of all Italian appellations, Barolo. At its finest, Barolo is without a doubt, the ultimate expression of the Nebbiolo grape.
